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DOXA

DOXA SUB Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition 39mm, Stainless Steel

804.10.031.29-SE17 39mm
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    A rare military reference reimagined for everyday wear, this is the DOXA SUB Army 200T For Hodinkee Limited Edition — Our take on one of the most elusive references in DOXA's history.

    DOXA SUB Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition - (Ref. 804.10.031.29-SE17) Product Details

    Our limited edition release brings one of DOXA's rarest references, the mil-spec "Army," into the brand's modern SUB 200T case for the first time. At 39mm in diameter and 41.5mm lug-to-lug, this 250-piece limited edition trims the vintage Army's footprint by roughly 10%, while softening its stark black accents into a warmer, Hodinkee-tweaked sand-and-grey palette with a vintage-inspired aluminum bezel and Old Radium Super-LumiNova throughout.

    General

    Condition

    New

    Brand

    DOXA

    Reference

    804.10.031.29-SE17

    Year

    2026

    Family

    Sub 200T

    Product Code

    18800193

    Power Reserve

    38 Hours

    Watch Display

    Analog

    Water Resistance

    200m

    Features

    Date display
    Deployment clasp
    Automatic movement

    Case

    Case Size

    39mm

    Case Depth

    10.70mm

    Case Shape

    Cushion

    Case Material

    316L Stainless steel case + screw-down caseback

    Bezel Material

    Aluminum

    Bezel Color

    Circular brushed aluminum bezel insert has been anodized with Pantone Cool Grey 9C (Hodinkee Grey). The minute markers are spared in the anodizing process to show the raw circular brushed aluminum beneath. The numerals and triangle are etched into the bezel and filled with Old Radium Superluminova.

    Lug to Lug

    41.50mm

    Lug Width

    18.00mm

    Crystal

    Sapphire

    Dial

    Dial Color

    Tan with grey outer ring & color-matched date disk, Old Radium lume, orange hands.

    Dial Texture

    Sandblasted

    Dial Markers

    Indexes in Old Radium Super-LumiNova

    Stone Set

    No

    Movement

    In-house Movement

    Yes

    Type

    Automatic

    Caliber

    Swiss mechanical automatic / Frequency 28,800 vph (4.0 Hz) / 26 Jewels / Decorated by DOXA

    Bracelet

    Type

    Rubber Strap

    Bracelet Material

    Taupe Rubber Strap + Grey Nylon NATO

    Stone Set

    No

    Buckle/Clasp

    Stainless steel folding clasp with racheting wetsuit extension

    102

    Years of Service in Luxury Timepieces

    2000+

    Five Star Reviews

    191

    Showrooms Across the Globe

    50+

    Luxury Timepiece Brands


    As Featured In

    Hodinkee

    Worn In, By Design: Case, Bezel, and Finishing Touches

    On the dial, a richly textured sand color replaces the stark tan of the vintage original, framed by the Army's signature checkerboard track and a date wheel finished in a soft, faded shade we're calling "Hodinkee Grey." That same faded grey carries over to the bezel, chosen in anodized aluminum rather than the ceramic used on DOXA's current Army, a material that ages and patinas with wear rather than staying static. The minute markers were deliberately spared during anodizing, so raw, circularly brushed aluminum peeks through from beneath, giving the bezel a lived-in texture right out of the box. The etched numerals and orientation triangle are filled with Old Radium Super-LumiNova, while DOXA's oversized orange hands provide instant, unmistakable legibility. True to the original mil-spec, the bezel trades DOXA's famous "No-Deco" dive scale for a standard 60-minute countdown track. The case is built in raw 316L stainless steel, a direct nod to the way original Army cases wore down to bare metal after years of hard use. Built on the streamlined SUB 200T architecture, the case omits a Helium Escape Valve to keep the profile slim, while still delivering a genuine 200 meters of water resistance.

    From Combat Brief to Collector's Grail: DOXA's Army Legacy

    In 1969, DOXA developed the "Army" in collaboration with the Swiss Army as a dedicated mil-spec dive watch, trading the SUB 300's bright orange dial for a tan dial with a distinct checkerboard surround and an oil-dipped black case. Produced in small batches through 1975 and issued mainly to support personnel attached to the Swiss Army's elite combat divers unit rather than the divers themselves, it rarely surfaces on the vintage market today. The handful of survivors, their coatings worn back to raw steel through years of service, have become a low-key obsession among serious collectors. DOXA and Watches of Switzerland reintroduced a modern take on the Army in ceramic a few years ago; this Hodinkee collaboration takes the reference in a different direction, sized down and rebuilt with a vintage-inspired approach to materials.